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Ghost Photography Back to Ghost Hunters
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Ghost photography is amazing, yet no one knows how the camera captures ghosts. As
ghost photography is the main tool in the ghost hunters tool belt, it is important to know a
little bit about capturing ghosts on film or digital images. Perhaps it is the camera's ability to
record the energy exhibited by ghosts, but however it works, some fantastic ghost photos of
orbs, ectoplasm, vortexes, apparitions and energy have been recorded in pictures.
With no rhyme or reason, most ghost pictures are captured by accident. However, most of
the ghosts captured in ghost photography are really not ghosts at all. Therefore, it is
important to understand what a camera strap, dust, moisture, rain, snow, breath, cigarette
smoke, flash reflection, solar flare, fingers, hair and a dirty lens look like when photographed
in front of the camera's lens. This way, one will be able to tell real ghost photography from
fake ghost pictures.
Most ghost hunters today are using digital cameras, because they are easy to work with and
easy to upload images to a computer for examination and editing. Others prefer the digital
camera to the old standard 35mm, because of the sheer amount of orbs that appear in
many of the pictures. Perhaps, a person may think that if they capture a ton of orb pictures,
maybe some of them will be real ghosts! Most of these orbs, however, are caused by flash
reflection off of reflective surfaces, dust, moisture, insects and even dampness. A good
35mm camera works great using AS400 film, and there will be less false positives and
some truly great ghost pictures.
Having said all that, you need to take a lot of pictures for good ghost photography, as there
will only be a few out of many (maybe hundreds) that will be true ghost photos. Follow your
gut instinct as to where and when to shoot. Take pictures in multiple at a time. Be sure and
keep your camera lens clean, the camera strap removed, long hair tied back, and fingers
away from the camera lens and flash unit (see false shadow ghost pictures). Ghost
photography should not occur during dampness, snow, rain, foggy or smoky conditions. If it
is cold, you must learn to hold your breath while snapping ghost photographs. Reflective
surfaces, such as glass, mirrors, metal, and even shiny walls should not be photographed, or
it will produce orbs and strange results that are not ghostly. Even aiming the camera into the
sun, will produce orb-like solar flare anomalies, and should be avoided. The best advice is
to be aware of your surroundings during ghost photography, especially around mist
generating fountains, creeks, waterfalls and snow melting in warmer temperatures. Also, be
sure your flash settings are not producing false energy pictures and that the camera is not
set on a lengthened exposure (which will produce false apparition photos).
Infrared ghost photography is intriguing, but expensive and difficult to master. It is believed
to be better, however, at capturing ghosts without false positives. Infrared photography
registers and captures radiation that we cannot see, as it is in a different spectrum of light. It
detects radiation caused electro-magnetic fields, which are exactly what most ghost hunters
believe ghosts exhibit.
Infrared ghost photography should be conducted without flash and in black and white film.
The film must be refrigerated and loaded and unloaded in and out of the camera in total
darkness. Also, different filters should be experimented with to determine what works best
under certain conditions. Traditional IR ghost photography requires a lot of experimentation
to get the hang of it, and should be studied in more detail.
In contrast, digital cameras with infrared lenses can possibly work much better. First, one
needs to test the digital camera to make sure it is not filtering out infrared. To do this,
simply point a TV remote at the camera lens (depressing a button on the remote) and snap
a photograph of it in the dark and with no flash. If you have a nice ball of light in your photo,
your camera "sees" the infrared laser of the remote and is good to use for infrared
photography. Otherwise, you will need a camera shop to remove your "IR-cut filter." There
are several spectrum ranges of glass, poly and gel filters (which are made by Kodak and
other manufacturers), which can be placed over the lens of the digital camera. The filter will
block out visible light and only allow IR light to pass through it. You may find that IR
photography in darker areas will require additional IR lighting other than the flash. More
experimentation with this type of photography needs to be done within the ghost
investigation community. Be sure and read: Ghosts
Camera
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